Geyser Installation for Dummies

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The 10-Second Trick For Geyser Installation

In this short article I will certainly explain the common fundamental needs of a sound, contemporary high stress, straight setup. If you need information, then I suggest that you have an appearance at the website (). For anybody searching for, obtain in touch with your neighborhood plumbing organisation. The complying with summary associates with a modern high pressure (400/600Kpa) system typically made by Kwikot South Africa.



Much less typical are old reduced pressure systems (100kpa) open pipe or "Latco" type systems. Realize that the parts are NOT compatible between both unique systems - High pressure and also Reduced stress! It is feasible to eliminate an old low stress system and change it with a modern high pressure system however - you get a new high stress geyser and install it according to the present specification.



The geyser rests in a tray made of plastic (usually red) or tin plate. I favor the plastic ones.

Since June 2001, the drip tray is not optional - its obtained to be there as well as there has to be a drainpipe pipe for it! The drainpipe is a 50mm PVC waste pipeline that drains the tray by piping the water out the residence (geyser installation).

Geyser Installation for Dummies

The two vacuum breakers stand up and down regarding 30cm over the hot spring. These are essential, as they stop water siphoning out the hot spring when the cool supply is stopped - geyser installation.

It can be said that this is the key feature, but I do not see it as such. Keep in mind that vacuum cleaner breakers are a reasonably new need - there are still countless old HP systems around without vacuum cleaner breakers and I am yet to see one collapse. Even if I haven't seen it doesn't imply it's not taking place nevertheless! It is also extra likely to take place in a multi-story building because the siphon can attract an extra powerful vacuum cleaner.

The cool water side is the side that directly attaches to the drain cock and also enters the hot spring near the bottom. After the shut off shutoff you would typically find a Stress Control Shutoff (PCV). There are a variety of different types, primarily made of brass yet some are made of plastic.

This is where the PCV releases pressure as well as this is the pipeline that usually leaks. Do not panic if you can not discover the PCV beside the geyser - it might be mounted up to 10 metres away, commonly in an extra obtainable position on a wall outside. Occasionally it's in a little plastic box outside.

Some Known Questions About Geyser Installation.

This is an important element that needs to never be messed with or 'fixed'. This valve must have a metal (copper or steel) pipeline connected to it and also the pipe must lead straight out the building. This air vent pipeline is an essential safety attribute check of the entire system. It must be made from copper or steel - plastic.

The T&P valve is the least optional component - it needs to exist! - The weight of the geyser should be adequately supported on the roofing system trusses - a minimum of two assistances under the 'feet' of the geyser. If it looks unstable get a plumbing professional to examine it out.

The hot spring has to be earthed! I have actually seen lots of geysers with the planet cable unconnected. All the copper pipelines should also be earthed and also bonded to the hot spring earth.


Once again, these are frequently simply left existing next to the geyser. There are basically only 2 key thermostat types - the modern-day round "Kwiktherm" in newer Kwikot hot springs and the VK (rectangle-shaped block) key in older hot springs and in some more recent non-Kwikot devices. The geyser may be fed (cool water) with polcop (plastic) pipe look these up - as much as the shut off shutoff, however the pipe into and out of the geyser must be copper or galvanized steel.

The Best Guide To Geyser Installation

The hot water side should be copper, steel or suitably ranked (70) plastic or composite pipeline. Note that you should contend the very least 1m of copper/steel pipe out the hot spring - you may not connect plastic (composite) pipeline directly to the geyser. As above, the PCV and also T&P need to be made from copper or steel - investigate this site particularly the vent out of the T&P valve.



I have actually seen a number of setups where the installer has simply run a short size of 22mm copper right into the drip tray with the idea being that the T&P can vent straight right into the drip tray. A suggestion due to the fact that the hot (100 +) water/steam melts the drip tray as well as the PVC drainpipe pipe.

The PCV is normally above the hot spring and also the cool water moves down into the hot spring. This is quite crucial due to the fact that it creates an anti-syphon loophole that avoids the geyser from draining pipes back via the inlet in the event of a water failure. If you fume water coming out your chilly faucets when the supply of water fails then this is not working properly.

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